Monday, December 27, 2010
11:20pm
London, England
Today was another full day of wandering, sightseeing, smelling, tasting, capturing (as best one can), and experiencing London. It was quite frigid here today, and by the time I had snapped lots of pictures in a row without having the chance to stuff my hands back in my pockets, my fingers resembled something more akin to frozen mini sausages than human appendages. But anyhow, I’m getting ahead of myself.
We all got up at around nine this morning and got ready for the day leisurely. After a good breakfast of tea, toast, and Weetabix (a British cereal that is quite hard to come by in the States), we headed back out to Central London via bus then tube. I feel so much more comfortable traveling by subway than I do by bus – I’m not sure why. It’s sort of the same back in San Francisco for me. Plus the tube is far more efficient, and we managed to avoid the heavy traffic jams and masses of shoppers along London’s more crowded streets. AND I just love the “Mind the Gap” warnings. So British of us.
We got off at Oxford Circle; first stop, Hamley’s. Hamley’s is one of the most famous toy stores in the world, stocking anything and everything from Lego and card games and Barbies and electronics to soft animals and flying things and puzzles and teddy bears. The latter is actually the whole impetus behind our visit to Hamley’s. My brother and my’s first teddy bears came from Hamley’s on Regent Street. I have absolutely no recollection of our first visit to the toy store so many years ago, though I must admit that I still adore my teddy – it has traveled everywhere with me and is definitely showing signs of being much used and loved. I almost bought myself a new Hamley’s teddy to commemorate the experience. But I exercised restraint. I guess now would be a good time to mention that things in the UK are much more expensive than in the US, as is the cost of living. Plus the British pound is worth more than the US dollar. A small teddy bear would have run me between fourteen and thirty quid today. Roughly between thirty to sixty dollars? Sorry, teddy. No can do.
After Hamley’s we made our way to Carnaby Street, a place my mum and aunt warned me would be a bit tacky, but which used to be THE place back in the 60’s at the height of the Hippie and Retro movements. However, Carnaby Street was anything but tacky. After wandering down the paved and cobbled streets and peering in the windows of the many stores and pubs, I have decided that Carnaby Street may actually have become one of my favorite spots in London. It’s this cool mix of old and new, fun and serious, polite and daring. I love it. I also love the new avant-garde sweatshirt I bought today at a little boutique called ‘super superficial’.
We walked out of Carnaby Street and made a quick stop at Picadilly Circus, the Times Square of London, if you will. Picadilly Circus is where all the off- and on-Broadway and theatre productions take place, and of course the traffic was mayhem. We then slowly and convolutedly marched in the direction of Trafalgar Square, bypassing many other historic landmarks and a few places that actually brought up some memories from my childhood. It’s weird how our minds choose to remember little very specific things and forget others.
We took lots of pictures in Trafalgar Square, and I am happy to say that the government has now banned the public from feeding the pigeons in the Square. That’s why there were far fewer of the little rascals flying around than I recall from years ago. Nevertheless, they are still as tame as ever and won’t get out of your way till you give them a little nudge with your boot.
From Trafalgar Square we walked past more sights that held deep meaning for my parents back in the day, including the Charing Cross station that my mum frequented in her school years to get from her home in Ashford into Central London. We passed by tons of gorgeous antique bookstores, and even stumbled across the Freed of London store, located across the street from the Sadlers Wells theatre. Freed, if you don’t know, is a brand of pointe shoe. There are many, many “makers”, or highly skilled pointe shoe makers, who fall under the Freed umbrella, and each has his own mark that he stamps on the bottom of the shoe. I used to wear Freed pointe shoes, and actually had a specific maker that I got my shoes from. It was cool today to see where it all started, and to stand at the doorstep of the original Freed location. I wish the store was open though…
We eventually wandered into Soho, or the Chinatown of London. It is significantly smaller than the Chinatown in San Francisco (but then again, everything is bigger in the US), and it feels much less touristy too, which was great. We found a good dim sum restaurant and got comfy in the warmth and bustle on the first floor. Another note: in the UK, what is called the first floor in the States is called the ground floor. So therefore, the first floor by UK standards means the second floor by US standards. Just an aside to ponder. We ordered absolutely TONS of food. And it was all delicious. Anyone who hasn’t had REAL Chinese food (and I mean real) should go find some. And get dim sum while you’re at it. It is an experience within itself.
From Soho we walked back through Trafalgar Square and through the archway leading up to Buckingham Palace. It is a long, straight road lined with gorgeous trees along Green Park on one side, and a plethora of historic, military, and royal buildings and landmarks on the other. My dad and I managed to situate ourselves right in the middle of the road leading up to the Palace, so I got some great pictures. The Queen was in too, so the Royal Standard was flying, and we managed to get up right to the gate. And of course, the "Buzbies" were there, as stern and unmoving as ever.
From Buckingham Palace we took yet another long and straight road through to the Duke of Wellington Arch. Along the way there were different landmarks that were erected in honor of the soldiers from the various countries who fought and gave their lives in the World Wars. The Arch itself was really beautiful – the carving is so intricate; in fact, that’s something I’ve noticed in all the architecture here. The craftsmanship, love, and detail put into the buildings, monuments, statues, and landmarks are really amazing. I feel as though all my pictures don’t do this place justice at all.
A bus ride later, and after taking a little break back at my Auntie Lucy’s house, we walked in the frigid night air to this restaurant Lucy wanted us to go to called The Waterfront, appropriately named, as it is situated right on the waterfront of the canal that runs through that part of London. I ordered a half pint of British cider (alcoholic and LEGAL for me here!!!), but I think we were all a little disappointed in the restaurant’s lack of real pub-ness. So as my mum’s highly detailed itinerary had originally described, and at my insistence, we then walked a few minutes to Gordon Ramsey’s pub / restaurant, The Warrington. IT. WAS. SENSATIONAL. And if you don’t know who Gordon Ramsey is, you should. Meeting the icon is one of my life goals.
The Warrington has a very cozy yet classy feel to it, and the décor is somewhat representative of a time past, though it isn’t out of date or old-feeling. It was really lovely and made me feel completely at ease. So this is why the pub is a cultural institution in the UK! I can get used to this. The more expensive and exclusive Warrington Restaurant is located upstairs, though it was clear that the pub is far more popular. A good English pub. An institution. And bloody delicious. I ordered a chocolate beer, from a local London brewery – something I wouldn’t get in the States, and we shared some of Gordon’s pub fare round the table. After a few drinks and soaking up of the pub vibes, we headed back to Lucy’s.
It’s just past midnight here now, so I should go and get some shuteye. I was feeling a bit jetlagged this morning. Another full day in London tomorrow, with snow expected too. That’ll be interesting. To everyone on the East Coast back in the States: I hope the crazy winter weather over there isn’t too horrible and that you can still get out and do what you need to do!
Sleep tight, all. See you in the morning.
Phillipa
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