Wednesday, December 29, 2010
12:57am (So technically Thursday morning…)
London, England
Saint Paul's Cathedral.
Millennium Bridge.
Walk along the Thames.
London Bridge.
Tower Bridge.
Starbucks.
Covent Garden.
Jane & Philip!!!
The Royal Ballet's 'Cinderella' (BEAUTIFUL).
Pub.
Tube.
Leaving London tomorrow morning. Next destination: Wye.
Phillipa
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
10:28pm
London, England
First on today’s agenda: Harrod’s in Knightsbridge. If you haven’t heard, Harrod’s is THE store in England. You can find absolutely anything and everything there that you could possibly expect of a high-end department store, and then SOME. The best part of Harrod’s, though, is what you wouldn’t expect. On the ground floor level of the metropolis-posed-as-a-store, you’ll find the Harrod’s Food Halls or the Food Emporium. Each room is dedicated to a different food “group”. There’s the meat room, the fruit and veg room, the sweets room, the chocolates room, the wine and spirits room, etc, etc. There you can find such rarities as bottles of wine and brandy from the 1900’s (for the small price of £120,000) and absolutely delicious-looking foods from all over. If you’re ever in London, you absolutely must stop by, even if it’s just to take a look and snap a few pictures. And if you go hungry, prepare to leave even hungrier.
After fighting the crowds at Harrod’s, we made our way to a little café called Patisserie Valerie, just a short walk down the street. This particular café holds a special place in my parents’ hearts. When they were in university, they used to get coffee and pastries there when their limited student budgets would allow it; and even today it was such a treat. The pastries in Europe really are infinitely better than those found in the US. No artificial cream here! Everything is made fresh and from scratch… And forget about going fat-free or butter-less. If you’re going to go all out, you’ve got to go all out. A vegetarian hot breakfast, cappuccino, and fresh-cream chocolate éclair (that was just what I ate) later, we left the crowded Patisserie and walked down some of the winding roads, past more gorgeous old buildings and houses towards the direction of my parents’ old halls of residence during their university years at Imperial College.
London is filled with a wonderful plethora of varied and historic museums, and pretty much all of them have free admission. After a quick walk through some of Imperial’s grounds, my brother, Robert, and my dad left us ladies to go to the Science Museum, whilst we went to the Victoria & Albert Museum. The museum, named after Queen Victoria I and her husband, Prince Albert, houses a huge collection of sculptures, art, artifacts, gowns, and other beautiful historic objects. Ironically, conveniently, and fantastically, the V & A has a special exhibition for Diaghilev & The Ballet Russes going on right now – just up my alley.
The exhibition was absolutely fabulous. There were costume designs, dance footage, programs, sketches, and utterly stunning costumes that were actually worn by the dancers on display, including a whole collection of things worn, used, and created for and by Nijinsky, one of the most famous male dancers of all time. What struck me most about the exhibition, besides its enormity and congruency, was how old the pieces on display (particularly the costumes) were, and how they were in such great condition. These costumes dated back from the early 1900’s through the 1920’s and are still breathtakingly beautiful. The amount of detail and hand-painted, stitched, stenciled, cut, and beaded work is really something to be marveled. The exhibition also made me realize yet again what a special career path and passion I have chosen. I think that it is safe to say that most of the people who were in the gallery are neither currently dancers, nor have they ever been dancers. But what’s beautiful for me to see is that so many people are still totally captivated by the art of dance, and realize that though it may not seem so, this art is really necessary and performs a function that our daily routines can’t. Dance is beauty. And lately I think beauty in life and in the world has been a bit lacking. Seeing people watch the footage of the dancers in the exhibition and marveling over the rehearsal process and behind-the-scenes creation of ballet reminded me a little bit of why I dance. I’m a part of something bigger, and something that people inherently realize that they need. I only wish for this view to expand – it’s not something I’ve really seen in the US.
We left the V & A Museum and met up with my dad and brother in front of the Natural History Museum, another stomping ground that my parents are all too familiar with. My dad used to work in the Museum, and actually once had a set of gold keys that gave him access to all parts of the gargantuan NHM during his studies in London. Unfortunately, the Museum was completely overrun with tourists, so we didn’t go in, but instead captured some gorgeous images of the castle-like outside of the museum in the setting sun.
We then made our way towards another part of Imperial College, where my parents attended university. It’s really interesting to see how different my college experience is turning out to be from my parents’. Of course times have changed, and things are happening on different continents, but the comparison still exists. It was also great learning about the university traditions that existed back when my parents were students at Imperial, and hearing all their anecdotes and memories about their school years.
Just across the street from Imperial’s Royal School of Music is Royal Albert Hall, site for concerts, performances, graduation ceremonies, etc. And just across the street from that is Hyde Park. Unfortunately the park was closed, as it was scarily dark by the time we got there, so we couldn’t walk all the way through it. We took the paths along the roads and crossed the Serpentine Bridge to the other side. A couple of bus stops later, we arrived in another part of town that my Auntie Lucy says “never sleeps”; it’s almost like another kind of Chinatown. There Lucy treated us to a spectacular Malaysian feast at one of her favorite restaurants. Hello, food baby.
It’s our last day in London tomorrow. We’re meeting up with some good friends of my parents’, Jane and Philip, whom we last saw years ago (when I was still in middle school) when they came to visit us in North Carolina. Jane is taking my mum and me to see the Royal Ballet’s ‘Cinderella’. I can’t wait!
More tomorrow, dear readers.
Phillipa
Monday, December 27, 2010
11:20pm
London, England
Today was another full day of wandering, sightseeing, smelling, tasting, capturing (as best one can), and experiencing London. It was quite frigid here today, and by the time I had snapped lots of pictures in a row without having the chance to stuff my hands back in my pockets, my fingers resembled something more akin to frozen mini sausages than human appendages. But anyhow, I’m getting ahead of myself.
We all got up at around nine this morning and got ready for the day leisurely. After a good breakfast of tea, toast, and Weetabix (a British cereal that is quite hard to come by in the States), we headed back out to Central London via bus then tube. I feel so much more comfortable traveling by subway than I do by bus – I’m not sure why. It’s sort of the same back in San Francisco for me. Plus the tube is far more efficient, and we managed to avoid the heavy traffic jams and masses of shoppers along London’s more crowded streets. AND I just love the “Mind the Gap” warnings. So British of us.
We got off at Oxford Circle; first stop, Hamley’s. Hamley’s is one of the most famous toy stores in the world, stocking anything and everything from Lego and card games and Barbies and electronics to soft animals and flying things and puzzles and teddy bears. The latter is actually the whole impetus behind our visit to Hamley’s. My brother and my’s first teddy bears came from Hamley’s on Regent Street. I have absolutely no recollection of our first visit to the toy store so many years ago, though I must admit that I still adore my teddy – it has traveled everywhere with me and is definitely showing signs of being much used and loved. I almost bought myself a new Hamley’s teddy to commemorate the experience. But I exercised restraint. I guess now would be a good time to mention that things in the UK are much more expensive than in the US, as is the cost of living. Plus the British pound is worth more than the US dollar. A small teddy bear would have run me between fourteen and thirty quid today. Roughly between thirty to sixty dollars? Sorry, teddy. No can do.
After Hamley’s we made our way to Carnaby Street, a place my mum and aunt warned me would be a bit tacky, but which used to be THE place back in the 60’s at the height of the Hippie and Retro movements. However, Carnaby Street was anything but tacky. After wandering down the paved and cobbled streets and peering in the windows of the many stores and pubs, I have decided that Carnaby Street may actually have become one of my favorite spots in London. It’s this cool mix of old and new, fun and serious, polite and daring. I love it. I also love the new avant-garde sweatshirt I bought today at a little boutique called ‘super superficial’.
We walked out of Carnaby Street and made a quick stop at Picadilly Circus, the Times Square of London, if you will. Picadilly Circus is where all the off- and on-Broadway and theatre productions take place, and of course the traffic was mayhem. We then slowly and convolutedly marched in the direction of Trafalgar Square, bypassing many other historic landmarks and a few places that actually brought up some memories from my childhood. It’s weird how our minds choose to remember little very specific things and forget others.
We took lots of pictures in Trafalgar Square, and I am happy to say that the government has now banned the public from feeding the pigeons in the Square. That’s why there were far fewer of the little rascals flying around than I recall from years ago. Nevertheless, they are still as tame as ever and won’t get out of your way till you give them a little nudge with your boot.
From Trafalgar Square we walked past more sights that held deep meaning for my parents back in the day, including the Charing Cross station that my mum frequented in her school years to get from her home in Ashford into Central London. We passed by tons of gorgeous antique bookstores, and even stumbled across the Freed of London store, located across the street from the Sadlers Wells theatre. Freed, if you don’t know, is a brand of pointe shoe. There are many, many “makers”, or highly skilled pointe shoe makers, who fall under the Freed umbrella, and each has his own mark that he stamps on the bottom of the shoe. I used to wear Freed pointe shoes, and actually had a specific maker that I got my shoes from. It was cool today to see where it all started, and to stand at the doorstep of the original Freed location. I wish the store was open though…
We eventually wandered into Soho, or the Chinatown of London. It is significantly smaller than the Chinatown in San Francisco (but then again, everything is bigger in the US), and it feels much less touristy too, which was great. We found a good dim sum restaurant and got comfy in the warmth and bustle on the first floor. Another note: in the UK, what is called the first floor in the States is called the ground floor. So therefore, the first floor by UK standards means the second floor by US standards. Just an aside to ponder. We ordered absolutely TONS of food. And it was all delicious. Anyone who hasn’t had REAL Chinese food (and I mean real) should go find some. And get dim sum while you’re at it. It is an experience within itself.
From Soho we walked back through Trafalgar Square and through the archway leading up to Buckingham Palace. It is a long, straight road lined with gorgeous trees along Green Park on one side, and a plethora of historic, military, and royal buildings and landmarks on the other. My dad and I managed to situate ourselves right in the middle of the road leading up to the Palace, so I got some great pictures. The Queen was in too, so the Royal Standard was flying, and we managed to get up right to the gate. And of course, the "Buzbies" were there, as stern and unmoving as ever.
From Buckingham Palace we took yet another long and straight road through to the Duke of Wellington Arch. Along the way there were different landmarks that were erected in honor of the soldiers from the various countries who fought and gave their lives in the World Wars. The Arch itself was really beautiful – the carving is so intricate; in fact, that’s something I’ve noticed in all the architecture here. The craftsmanship, love, and detail put into the buildings, monuments, statues, and landmarks are really amazing. I feel as though all my pictures don’t do this place justice at all.
A bus ride later, and after taking a little break back at my Auntie Lucy’s house, we walked in the frigid night air to this restaurant Lucy wanted us to go to called The Waterfront, appropriately named, as it is situated right on the waterfront of the canal that runs through that part of London. I ordered a half pint of British cider (alcoholic and LEGAL for me here!!!), but I think we were all a little disappointed in the restaurant’s lack of real pub-ness. So as my mum’s highly detailed itinerary had originally described, and at my insistence, we then walked a few minutes to Gordon Ramsey’s pub / restaurant, The Warrington. IT. WAS. SENSATIONAL. And if you don’t know who Gordon Ramsey is, you should. Meeting the icon is one of my life goals.
The Warrington has a very cozy yet classy feel to it, and the décor is somewhat representative of a time past, though it isn’t out of date or old-feeling. It was really lovely and made me feel completely at ease. So this is why the pub is a cultural institution in the UK! I can get used to this. The more expensive and exclusive Warrington Restaurant is located upstairs, though it was clear that the pub is far more popular. A good English pub. An institution. And bloody delicious. I ordered a chocolate beer, from a local London brewery – something I wouldn’t get in the States, and we shared some of Gordon’s pub fare round the table. After a few drinks and soaking up of the pub vibes, we headed back to Lucy’s.
It’s just past midnight here now, so I should go and get some shuteye. I was feeling a bit jetlagged this morning. Another full day in London tomorrow, with snow expected too. That’ll be interesting. To everyone on the East Coast back in the States: I hope the crazy winter weather over there isn’t too horrible and that you can still get out and do what you need to do!
Sleep tight, all. See you in the morning.
Phillipa
Sunday, December 26, 2010
8:30pm
London, England
It’s strange being a tourist in your own country. I know far more about the States than I do about the UK, and it is the UK that I guess I call “home” for all intensive purposes. Is that wrong of me? I am so lost in this place, and yet I feel so incredibly comfortable among this bustling city’s diversity and mish mash of boroughs. Perhaps this trip will help me redefine that little word, home. I am going to live here one day. I want to name this little project ‘Finding Myself.’ The proposal: document each day I spend here in the UK, using a combination of both written and pictorial memoirs. Then to reflect and hopefully discover some previously hidden truths or facets of me that choose to surface themselves as these two weeks go by.
After a delayed departure from RDU yesterday thanks to a prolonged de-icing operation on our plane, we thought we were all set to get our frozen little butts to London. But as it must go, something else went wrong. Just after the flight attendants had served me my vegetarian, vegan, gluten and wheat free dinner (white rice with lima beans and broccoli), our captain came on the PA and announced that we were experiencing a “minor” mechanical difficulty and would have to turn around mid-Atlantic and head back to the States. We landed in New York’s JKF airport at around midnight, Eastern Time. After sitting at the gate for a couple of hours while the problem was amended, we got underway again. Flight AA 147, take two, to LHR.
I was restless the whole flight and barely slept. Somewhere over Ireland, breakfast was served (corn-meal-thickened yogurt, fruit, and a gluten and wheat free German chocolate cake flavored cookie). We landed in Heathrow a little under two hours later. Finally! After we got our bags we headed towards the trains just to learn that there had been a switch error in the Paddington / London line and that all trains had been suspended. We waited nearly another hour for the problem to be remedied, and eventually got on a train and ended up in London. Then it was just a short and crowded taxi ride to my Auntie Lucy’s house in Maida Vale, a borderline upscale part of town. I haven’t seen Lucy since I was about 3 years old. It’s been a while. After our hellos and hugs and a little settling in, we gabbed over tea, then headed out into the cold London late afternoon.
I haven’t been outside of the States since my family and I moved here, over nine years ago. It’s weird coming back to a place that has so much to do with your life, and is yet so disconnected from your current reality. This whole ordeal must be that much more interesting for my parents. This country was where they both grew up, met, and started their lives together. This was their stomping ground. And now they want to show it to my brother and me. This is how it was, this is what’s still the same, and this is what’s new. I am so amazed by cities that can grow and explode, yet still hold on that special something that reminds its residents of what was good back then. London is one of those cities.
London is so full of absolutely stunningly beautiful architecture and history. Almost every building has a story, and every road holds a memory. My parents are trying to remind my brother and me of those stories and memories. I can’t wait to learn more. A few things looked vaguely familiar; some things more than others. It would be a lie if I told you I knew where we were and were we went today. I quite frankly, had absolutely no idea. I can’t decide if that horrifies me or thrills me. I’ve known where I’ve been going for so long that this whole thing is kind of coming out of left field.
We took a double-decker 6 bus from Lucy’s house to Central London, riding along the absolutely packed Oxford Street, bustling with holiday shoppers fighting for their Boxing Day deals. The streets were lit so beautifully with Christmas lights of all colors, and the storefronts were equally impressive. We eventually got off the bus and marched with purpose through the crowds along a convoluted route towards the River Thames. We walked along Regent Street, saw Gordon Ramsey’s Claridges restaurant, past Hyde Park, near Buckingham Palace, along Prince Charles’ palace, by Parliament and Big Ben and Westminster Abbey, and a hundred other stunning and inspiring locations. Hopefully I’ll be able to see more tomorrow in the daylight.
We eventually arrived at the London Eye and took our “flight.” It’s amazing how being above the world puts it into perspective. The view was gorgeous. I felt like I was floating above an ocean of Christmas lights, and there were a few moments where I just wanted to cry. This is my city. I just don’t know her that well yet.
After we 360-ed the Eye, we disembarked and made our way back to Lucy’s house. Several crowded bus rides later, we arrived at her door and got dinner going. Home-cooked Chinese food complete with champagne, wine, and chocolates for dessert. Conversation and plans.
It’s late now though, and I haven’t slept in over 24 hours. More tomorrow, plus a loaded agenda. Thanks for coming on this adventure with me.
Phillipa
